I was thrilled to finally tick one of the world’s most celebrated luxury train journeys off my bucket list: Rovos Rail. My journey started rather slowly, with a two-hour flight delay between Cape Town and Johannesburg. Fortunately, I was travelling a day ahead of the train departure. This is something we always recommend to our clients. An overnight stay in Pretoria or Cape Town gives you peace of mind and avoids the risk of a missed departure due to flight delays.
An Overnight Stay in Pretoria
Pretoria welcomes you with its lush, tree-lined streets, which are particularly beautiful during jacaranda season when the city is awash with purple blossoms.
I stayed at Castello di Monte, an elegant Tuscan-style guest house in a quiet upmarket suburb of Waterkloof.
There are great views from their 360° observation tower or Terrace Room balconies. The Tuscan style house comprises of Classic Rooms (without balconies) or Terrace Rooms (with balconies).
Both room types are very spacious with large bathrooms, and all the comforts you would expect from a five-star guest house. There are also Honeymoon and Presidential Suites for those seeking a little more space.
Dinner is à la carte, with an appealing choice of South African wines.
The following morning, you could enjoy a city tour before your transfer to the train. Alternatively, the comfortable lounges and terrace are lovely places to relax with a book and a pot of tea.
Rovos Rail
On arrival a friendly team of porters greeted us, with smiles from ear to ear, to assist with our luggage. At check-in, personalized luggage tags ensure that your bags reach the proper carriage and room. With a glass of sparkling wine in hand, we settled into the private departure lounge to await boarding.
On the platform there is a historical steam “loco” letting off some steam for your viewing pleasure. And for the real train enthusiasts to enjoy. There’s also a short tour of the train yard and workshop, which gave us a fascinating insight into the care and craftsmanship behind these beautiful carriages.
All too soon, it is time to board.
“All aboard” and we are escorted to our cabins to freshen up before drinks in the Observation Car and Dinner. Stepping aboard Rovos Rail feels like entering another era. The polished wood, elegant interiors and attentive service recall the golden age of rail travel, with all the comforts of a thoroughly modern journey.
Our carriage hostess introduced herself and made us feel immediately at home. She would look after us during the three night/four-day journey.
(Editor’s note: The journey time has lengthened since Gloria’s trip.)
As Rovos Rail shares South Africa’s railway network, occasional delays are possible. Sometimes trains need to wait for signals or freight services to pass. However, a luxury train such as Rovos Rail is all about the experience of ”slow travel”, where the journey is every bit as important as the destination.
Dinner is an extravagant fine dining affair with formal dress code. The South African cuisine is paired with a fantastic selection of South African wines. They used to recommend Black Tie for men but as the world is generally more casual, you can get away with a suit or even jacket and tie nowadays.
Gloria’s tip: Remember to advise Rovos Rail of any dietary requirements before departure.
Gentle Movement
Luckily, I have a fairly good sense of balance, although getting ready for bed on a moving train does require a little coordination!
I do suggest you use the earplugs provided. Unless you are a sound sleeper or have taken a sleeping aid. The gentle rocking of the train and unfamiliar sounds take a little getting used to, particularly on the first night. The following morning, I was gently rocked awake. There was no need to rush. After breakfast, there was plenty of time to relax, enjoy the changing scenery and appreciate having a little time entirely to myself.
Sounds appealing?
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Much of the day can be spent in the Observation Car, enjoying the scenery, or relaxing in the privacy of your suite.
When the lunchtime gong sounded, we made our way to the dining car for a delicious four-course lunch, accompanied by some exceptional South African wines paired to each course.
I don’t feel guilty as an afternoon siesta is my next thought.
After high tea in the lounges we disembarked near Kimberley for an excursion to the famous Big Hole and Diamond Mine Museum – the largest man-made excavation in the world.
A short film introduced us to Kimberley’s diamond-mining history before we visited the viewing platform overlooking the enormous excavation. It is quite extraordinary to imagine the thousands of miners who worked here in search of precious diamonds.
Unfortunately many men lost their lives in search of the valuable gems. There are some replicas to view some of the more famous and larger diamond finds, as well as a vault with some genuine stones. Beautiful specimens indeed, hence the saying “Diamonds are a girls’ best friend”.
Afterwards, we returned to the station for another glass of champagne before boarding for our final night.
Dinner felt particularly special that evening. By then, friendships had formed among fellow passengers, and there was plenty of lively conversation around the table. So you are ensured of good company and some surprises along the way for the last dinner.
Through the Karoo to Cape Town
Sunday has arrived and the last leg of our journey to Cape Town. Travelling through the vast Karoo landscape, we stopped at Matjiesfontein for a short stroll through this beautifully preserved Victorian railway village.
As we stepped onto the platform, a gentleman playing his guitar serenaded us. It was a charming welcome.
Matjiesfontein feels wonderfully untouched by time. The historic Lord Milner Hotel and its original pub stands at the heart of the village, while the railway museum and collection of vintage vehicles offer a fascinating glimpse into its past.
Back aboard, we continued towards the Cape, passing through picturesque Winelands scenery while lunch was served.
After packing up, there was still time for a final visit to the Observation Car, afternoon tea and farewell drinks with our new friends.
Then, in the distance, Table Mountain came into view. It was the unmistakable sign that Cape Town, and the end of our amazing journey, was approaching.
My Rovos Rail experience had been everything I had hoped for. The fine dining, gracious service, interesting excursions and simple pleasure of watching South Africa unfold beyond the windows made it a journey I will remember for a very long time.
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Considering a Rovos Rail train journey?
Rovos Rail offers a wonderful way to experience South Africa, whether as a memorable multi-day journey in its own right. Or as part of a longer safari holiday.
At Cedarberg Africa, we can help you choose the most suitable train journey and suite category, advise on departure dates and arrange any surrounding safari itinerary.
You might like to spend time exploring Cape Town and the Winelands or add a safari in one of South Africa’s exceptional wildlife reserves.
If you would like some personal advice, contact our safari specialists. We would be delighted to help you plan a journey that suits your interests.
This Rovos Rail trip report was writing by Gloria Darvall of Cedarberg Africa
Gloria has been with Cedarberg for over 25 years of experience as a Senior consultants with a focus on Operations. Born and raised in the Cederberg, she brings extensive local knowledge and first-hand travel experience to the holidays she helps create.
Gloria has a particular affection for Botswana and its remarkable wilderness but loves exploring the many different experiences that Africa has to offer. Her personal journeys, including this memorable trip aboard Rovos Rail, as well as Namibia, Victoria Falls, and of course South Africa
Cedarberg Africa specialises in tailor-made African holidays, thoughtfully planned around each traveller’s interests and preferences. Photographs credit – Gloria Darvall and Rovos Rail
