Last Updated:

Kate’s visit to Aksum

Next we flew northwards from Addis Ababa in Ethiopia to the Giralta Mountains and Aksum (Azum) where we spent 2 nights.

The ancient Ethiopian Orthodox churches dating back to the 4th century really blew my mind. What also fascinated me was how each church has its own collection of priceless artefacts. You would be led into a small room and shown illuminated manuscripts from the 11th century made of goatskin parchment, antiquated crosses and even crowns.

We didn’t have enough time but I would strongly recommend undertaking one of the climbs to the many mountain-top monasteries in the Tigrai region. One is a steep but achievable walk of 1½ to 2 hours so an easy morning excursion. Another is only suitable for very fit adventurous people as it ends with a climb up a very steep rock-face. A third one ever so slightly offends my feminist sensibilities as only men are allowed to make the final 15 metre rock face ascent into the Debre Damo monastery. Here you are literally hauled up by a leather rope by the strong-armed monks at the top whilst your wife is left behind to take photos of you and laugh…

Visit to Axum

Axum (or Aksum as it is also known) has the makings of a lovely place to visit. They are busy laying cobblestone roads around the main historical sites and the approach road to the ancient stelae (obelisks) could be a lovely place to amble around, enjoy a local beer in a café or do some craft shopping. However it is not there yet… The ancient sites are certainly interesting but not as impressive as Lalibela or Gondar, the hotels are distinctly average.

However Axum IS a must-see for all keen archaeologists. The engraved trilingual tablets, dating back to the time of Christ, have given us much of the history of this area during that time. (They are written in Greek, Sabean and Guiz, the local languages of the time.)

The biggest surprise for me was the museum at Axum Ethiopia. The treasures stuffed into its glass cabinets would have each been awarded their own backlit, temperature controlled exhibit in the V&A Museum or the Met. But here 16th royal gowns threaded with gold had to hustle for your attention alongside the ornate gold coronation crowns of kings and elaborate Ethiopian crosses from the 9th century.

Share this article