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| Benguerra and Bazaruto Islands |
It is hard to imagine somewhere more romantic or ‘Robinson Crusoe’ than the islands of Bazaruto and Benguerra, off the Mozambique coast near Vilanculos – empty white sandy beaches, lush vegetation and an azure blue sea for swimming amongst the rich coral life. The protected reefs surrounding the Benguerra islands support dolphin, dugong, game fish and giant lobster. The shallow, crystal-clear waters offer spectacular safe snorkelling protected by the dazzling soft coral reefs. You float above starfish, anemones, seahorses and a bewildering range of jewel-like fish, which extend out to the many dive sites where you also encounter green turtles, manta ray, sailfish and a variety of docile sharks. The more adventurous will enjoy the thrill of a night dive or wreck dive whilst beginners can take a PADI dive course. Experience the exhilaration of big game fishing, fighting marlin (between October and March) as well as barracuda, kingfish, tuna and sailfish. On the Benguerra and Bazaruto islands themselves a mosaic of forest, savanna and saltwater lakes sustains a diversity of flora and fauna. Bird-watchers will not be disappointed with Benguerra with over 125 species recorded including the rare crab plover, olive bee-eater, green coucal, narina trogan and paradise flycatchers. Above all, there are no people! If you want a cosmopolitan bustling resort experience, the Benguerra & Bazaruto islands are not for you. There are no shops, no real roads and very few vehicles.
Scheduled charter flights six times a week fly direct from Johannesburg to Vilanculos, the nearest mainland airport, and then you continue by boat (30 minutes) or air to the islands. There are also some mainland lodges, opposite the Benguerra islands, which we list with the island lodges. You can can also fly direct from the Kruger Park to Vilanculos several times a week.
• Accommodation in Benguerra and Bazaruto Islands
• Safari tours in Benguerra and Bazaruto Islands
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The Quirimbas Island archipelago of 32 coral islands make up one of the last remaining unexplored areas of Africa’s coast, stretching for 100km of the far north of Mozambique. The southernmost 11 of these islands and a vast expanse of mainland forest are included in the Quirimbas National Park - a conservation effort to preserve and protect this area. The area is known by many as one of the world’s best diving and fishing destinations. Many of the fishing areas and dive sites are only discussed by local fishermen and not found on charts or in guides. Fishing offers the opportunity of hooking a Marlin, sailfish, dogtooth tuna, mackerel, various species of kingfish and the infamous bonefish.
Recently access to the Quirimbas and the nearby Mozambique mainland has become a lot easier due to the increased number of direct flights from Johannesburg to Pemba and from Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Once you arrive at Pemba airport, charter flights or helicopter transfers whisk you off to the island lodges.
Alternatively you can choose to spend your time at a mainland lodge near to the town of Pemba. The town was founded by the Portuguese about 100 years ago and is set on a peninsula overlooking the bay. The oldest part of town is the baixa, centred around the port and adjacent to Paquitequete, the original fishing village. Though the buildings are very crumbly, this is where Pemba’s oldest and most attractive buildings are found. In central Pemba there is an authentic local market where arts and crafts, as well as traditional artisans’ silverware can be found. The most popular part of Pemba is lovely Wimbe beach, a palm-fringed crescent of white sand some 5km east of town. The tropical climate ensures that the water is always warm, and Pemba is best known for its excellent diving, snorkelling and fishing. Inland, the scenery is stunning and you can explore among the mangrove channels and experience Mozambican culture at its most authentic as this area is virtually undeveloped.
• Accommodation in Quirimbas Archipelago
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Mozambique is still pretty wild so touring about in much of the southern part of Mozambique is not for the faint-hearted. However, if you have time and an adventurous spirit, do consider exploring the more chaotic but no less fascinating mainland. You will get a real sense of the country and you will be contributing in a direct way to the upliftment of the local people.
It’s well worth spending a night or two in the old colonial capital of Maputo. Though it bears the scars of war and consequent neglect, Maputo has successfully reclaimed the beachfront area and it is very prettily situated on a cliff overlooking the Indian ocean. We recommend staying at the imposing colonial Polana Hotel which can arrange guided excursions. Maputo is easily accessible from South Africa and is one hour’s drive on a good tarred road from the border. Another alternative is to take a boat out to Inhaca island where you can stay at the friendly and moderately priced Inhaca Resort.
Outside of Maputo, accommodation in Southern Mozambique tends to be quite rustic (or old-fashioned) though each lodge we’ve visited has its definite charms. Two and three hours north of Maputo, are some family friendly lodges. Zonguene Lodge has an old-fashioned family appeal in a lovely position at the mouth of the Limpopo river with a stunning beach and river setting. Praia du Sol is a charming rustic lodge on a hillside overlooking the white sandy beach of Bilene lagoon and offers a range of watersports on the lagoon as well as fishing and diving in the Indian Ocean beyond.
If you have time, you can drive even further north to the lovely coastal towns of Tofu or Barra in the Inhambane province, though the driving does become slower and more adventurous as you travel north. North of the Limpopo river, the Indian Ocean takes on the turquoise hue of the picture postcards and the snorkelling and diving becomes ever more rewarding. Casa Barry or Flamingo Bay Lodge are good options here.
One of the most exciting recent developments in Mozambique is the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park which links Mozambique with the Kruger National Park to the west and Zimbabwe to the north to create a 35,000km ‘super park’. Over time, it’s hoped that more visitors will venture beyond the established safari areas of the Kruger into the Mozambique park to be rewarded with the experience of an ambitious conservation effort in progress. We have visited Machampane Camp, which has an exquisite setting on the banks of the wide perennial Machampane river, and specialises in wilderness walking safaris. This part of the park is very easily accessible from the Giriyondo border post (approx one hours drive).
If you have an adventurous spirit and a 4x4 then you can continue through the park to the coast south of Xai Xai to stay at one of the coastal lodges such as Praia do Sol.
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